TIPS FOR TRAVEL TO IRAN
Travel Tips
The new 'Iran cheques' make dealing with such large numbers of rials much easier, a lot easier to carry around than huge wads of notes. They are available in 1 million and 500,000 rial denominations.
Philip Walker, UK (Sep 05)
Shiraz: Do make it a point and taste the local biscuit delicacy called Youkheh. I was absolutely hooked. I can only described it as like an chinese egg roll biscuit, but the biscuit is much lighter and is rolled tightly into many layers which are filled with icing sugar.
Mong-Yang Loh, UK (Aug 05)
In order to climb Mount Damavand, foreigners are now requested to pay US$25 at the start of the trail (Gusfand Sara, 3035m). While it is possible to escape the fee by starting from Reyneh, we were checked at the main shelter (4250m) the same evening by someone from the Indian Mountaineering Federation.
Marc Laperrouza, Switzerland (Aug 05)
Things are changing fast in Iran. I have been travelling around alone as a woman. The dresscode is changing. Outside Tehran you can easily get away without socks in your sandals. Your trousers don't need to cover your ankles and your shirt should only go down below your elbows. Of course you should still be wearing a scarf, a bandana is not enough yet. Be aware that at very religious places you should be wearing more.
VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT GIVE THUMBS UP SIGN. This is the Iranian f**k you sign by ten. It is considered extremely rude and bad behavior even though most Iranians can see if it is given with a smile that it is purely ignorance. This piece of information is really missing in the guidebook.
Tove Gronbaek Jensen, Denmark (Oct 03)
I am a vegetarian. Vegetarian food is very difficult to find in restaurants and I got sick of eating rice, tomatoes and bread all the time. I started to buy vegetables at the market and then cook it up at the kitchens of the hotels.
Anthony Paine, Switzerland (Aug 03)
In Esfahan bazaar some carpet sellers can take visa. The transaction is done via a phone call to Dubai - which adds 8% on to the value of your purchase. I found that hotels gave pretty bad rates. If you must change money on the street make sure a local goes with you. I got ripped off badly, and was threatened verbally when I complained. His excuse was "I need commission, its dangerous here, lots of police around!"
I was informed that since 11 September 2001 all banking connections between Iran and UK have been suspended. Since I ran out of money during my trip I can confirm the necessity of bringing enough dollars in cash, since the alternatives are very complicated. I eventually had money transferred from home to the Foreign Office in London then to the British Embassy in Tehran. But that process takes up to a week.
The dangers posed by the traffic in Tehran cannot be overstated! Crossing the road is a daily battle of wits, and can get very annoying for the person used to being able to cross the road safely at traffic lights and zebra crossings. Vehicles ignore all road regulations, driving as if pedestrians are an obstruction to them. Motorbikes are the worst culprits, riding on the pavements and the wrong way down the street. I nearly got mown down by a bus whilst trying to cross the road. The bus was hurtling its way towards me against the flow of traffic and straddling two lanes.
Alex Melbourne (Apr 03)
While driving past the US embassy, the tour guide I was with insisted that if the military guards see you taking photos they will make arrests. I returned to the embassy a week later with some students I had befriended and they kept saying that it was absolutely no problem to take photos. In the end, I made them ask the guard in the guard tower - and he agreed! So, it's worth it to ask.
Sarah Ohring, USA (Mar 03)
A very interesting object on display at the museum in the Vank Cathedral in Esfahan was a bible verse (Proverbs 1:2) sculpted on a strand of hair, which can be viewed under a microscope. But the entrance fee is an exorbitant 25000 Rials.
Betty Sam, India (Feb 03)
Dress does vary somewhat. In Tehran we saw young women in sandals with painted toe-nails! Jeans are de rigeur among the young. The flowing, all enveloping shawl is undergoing change. Some women wear ones that are made of lace, others are dotted or have flower sprigs in varying dark shades. The headscarf is going ever further back on the head. Many women complained to my wife about the necessity to wear hejab. There is an increase in the number wearing simply a coat over the trousers in the Syrian/Jordanian fashion. One woman we spoke to said that in her home town she would have to wear the black cloak but elsewhere she could be more relaxed and just wear the coat. In Tehran some of the outfits look just like trouser suits. A number of older women are also knotting the long shawl under their bust to give more use of their arms for lifting and carrying. It all appears to be in a state of flux.
Margaret & Michael Clark, Australia (Feb 03)
Moving About
The Trans Asya Express from Tehran to Istanbul consists almost entirely of Iranian passengers most of them do not intend to ever return back. The general excitementabout their immigration is big and some are planning on how to continue from Turkey to Western Europe, legally or illegally. A western passport is a source of much curiosity, as is western money: As always, it is well worth it to choose carefully the compartment in which you sleep and the people to whom you show your passport.
Noé Wiener, Switzerland (Jan 06)
Be careful of being ripped off if you are hiring a taxi on your own. After a while you get to know what kind of price to expect for a journey, but I came across several taxi drivers who demanded a lot more. Agree on a price before you get into the taxi, and decide whether it sounds reasonable or not.
Alex Melbourne (Apr 03)
If you travel on a domestic flight, try to reserve ahead. Flying is a popular form of transportation, meaning that in Iran flights were crowded and we had to switch to land transport a number of times.
Pavel Luksha & Oyuna Dougarova, Russia (Feb 03)
Scams & Warnings
Probably the most dislikeable thing about our whole trip was the fact that most times, even after having agreed a price with “tour” operators or taxis, they would try to get more out of us at the end of the tour. This always left a bad after-taste!! Make sure that you have agreed upon exactly what your tour costs and what you are paying for before you start, including the maximum length of time.
Cathy Stokes (Apr 05)
Beware of the robbers and pickpocketing in the bazaar. Before arriving we were warned by one man that there are a lot of thieves in Tabriz. We didn't care about it, but we should've cared. One man attacked us with a knife near the bazaar at 8 pm. We gave him some money and he went away. We reported the case to the police. The policemen were polite, but were not able to find the thief.
Boris Josipovic, Croatia (Apr 03)
We didn't pay one entry fee whilst in Yazd - perhaps they don't charge anymore - although one old man tried to sell us a ticket to a park in Shiraz whilst visiting the mosque next door to our hotel. Luckily a local came up to us and said that it was a false ticket and not to pay the IR30,000 he was asking. There may be a scam going on with false tickets because it was also tried on when we were in Esfahan.
Tanya Paterson (Feb 03)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
There is a new sight in Esfahan: The Ali Gholi Agha Bathhouse. It´s a beautiful restored old hammam. It is well worth a visit, espacially if you don´t visit the Sultan Mir Ahme Hammam in Kashan. English speaking guides are also available. Admission IR 10.000. The hammam is located in the Masjed-e Sayyed Street, about 500 m west from the Takhti Junction.
Dietmar Krumpl, Austria (Nov 05)
Whoever is planning a trip to Iran - visiting the city of Bam is an absolute MUST! Besides the famous and amazing citadel in Bam, there are two other ancient fortresses in the same area that are not mentioned in the guide books, probably because they're off the beaten track (although they're close to Bam). You simply drive eastwards from Bam, on a side road, which is partly paved, for about 20 kms, alongside date plantations. You'll reach a village called Darestane-e-Payin, where local villagers live inside a unique ancient fortress made of mud. The people are really friendly and gave us fresh thin bread which was baked in front of us on stone.
From there, you continue straight for another 5 kms until you reach another ancient fortress, which, is even more impressive - similar style to the Bam fortress, but completely deserted (amazing overnight stay!). There are no signs in the area, but it is easily reachable; you simply drive eastwards. We were told that the name of this fortress is Darestan.
Martin Jameson, Australia (Jun 03)
Persepolis is not to be missed. One of the world's great ancient sites. It's amazing how little we know about Darius, only picking up the story from the Greek side, but here is evidence of a great civilisation that comes to life before your eyes. The nearby tombs and reliefs at Naqsh-e Rostam and Naqsh-e Rajab are sensational, both in the dramatic appearance of the mightly tombs carved in the rock and the fascination later Sassanik carvings, telling of the Romans being defeated.
John Sharb (Nov 02)
Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes
I met a bus ticket seller who sits in a small booth in Tehran. I first met him in 2001 and he is still there. He helped me find the right bus and always had a smile. I would stop for a chat. He would share an apple with me and a few nuts. In an effort to respond I gave him a postcard from home and offered him a banana I had bought for our farewell. He would not accept the banana saying "my house is near, but yours is far". I guess that says a lot.
John Whittaker, Australia (Dec 02)
In Tehran, even the pickpockets may be generous to tourists. Some men pushed and shoved behind as I queued at a bus station kiosk. A moment later I found my wallet - and the men - gone. I raised the alarm, but in apparent futility, not having seen the faces of the pickpockets. As I made a final search, a gruff looking man approached, talking curtly, before indicating I should follow him to a quiet corner. There he gave me another, battered wallet, holding the contents of mine and not a coin missing. He indicated I should get lost. I did, confused. Was he a thief with a conscience or a samaritan who had given the hard word to the real culprit? Either way it was a crime undone, a bizarre extension of Iranian hospitality.
Wayne Erb, New Zealand (Dec 02)
Although I intended to wait to purchase a carpet until I reached Tehran, my final city in Iran, I somehow did not resist and ended up buying one in Esfahan. From there the seller helped me send it to a hotel in Tehran where I intended to stay. After doing this, the worries began. In fact, I had not reserved the hotel and they did not expect me there at all. Moreover, it was a cheap hotel although the carpet dealer claimed all would be fine. I was really surprised and relieved when I arrived at the hotel, to find that they had received the parcel and were able to hand it over to me the next day. What was interesting was that whenever I shared my worries about getting the parcel with Iranians they felt offended, as if I suggested someone would steal my parcel. It seems that hotels are very honest.
Ivana Bezecna, Slovakia (Nov 02)
On at least three occasions we were invited home by people we met accidentally in the street or in the bazaar. They did not care that there were 16 of us. We accepted the invitation of a family in Esfahan, and spent a nice evening drinking tea, chatting about our families and dancing. We were also able to see the elegant Iranian women, otherwise covered by standard clothing when they are outside their home walls.HOW TO OBTAIN A TOURIST VISA TO IRAN
Every foreign visitor is required visa to enter Iran except the following:
nationals of Bosnia-Herzegovina, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Slovenia and Turkey for stays of up to 3 months. Nationals of Israel will be refused entry under all circumstances.
The Embassy of Iran in the visitor's home country or overseas issues visas. Visas are only valid for the cities indicated on the visa.
To obtain a visa, a Letter of Invitation is required from a sponsor in Iran and certified by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Normally the sponsor is a tour operating agency or a hotel. Once the permission is granted it is then sent to the Iran Consulate overseas where the visa is issued. The complete procedure can take a minimum of one month.
Invitation Letter requirement:
To issue the Letter of Invitation, which will enable tourist to obtain Iran visa, the following information is required:
01 Name of applicant and surname of his / her parent.
02 Nationality / Citizenship.
03 Sex and marital status.
04 Date and place of birth.
05 Passport number, issue date / place & validity.
06 Date and point of arrival / departure.
07 Occupation & place of work (name and address of organisation).
Types of tourist visa and cost in US$:
There are 2 main types of visa issued for tourist travel in Iran - Transit and Tourist Visas. The type and length of visa you actually receive varies depending on the country where you will collect the visa, and on the current situation in the Tehran Foreign Ministry. For example, sometimes one-month tourist visas are issued as standard, while other times it may be very hard to obtain anything more than a 10-day visa.
The official authorisation fee for this service varies for each nationality.
Current sample prices for non-American nationals:
Single entry: $70
Double entry: $120
The application procedure for a Transit Visa is as the same as for a Tourist Visa.
Transit Visa is valid for 5 days.
Application requirements:
(a) Two copies of completed visa application form.
(b) Valid passport for at least 6 months with a minimum two blank pages.
(c) 2 passport size photos (ladies are respectfully requested to observe the Islamic code Hejab in their photographs).
(d) Invitation Letter (as mentioned above) with details of travel arrangements.
(e) Visa fees payable by cash or money order.
(f) Day-by-day itinerary.
(g) Applicants must also submit two-way tickets and evidence of hotel reservation.
Notes:
Visas are only valid for the cities indicated on the visa.
Visa regulations are liable to change at short notice. Prospective visitors are advised to contact the nearest Iran Consular section or the Embassy.
All visitors wishing to stay for more than 3 months must obtain a residence permit. Application must be made within 8 days of arrival to Police Headquarters or the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Tehran.
US citizens who were born in Iran, who have become naturalised citizens of Iran, or who were at one time citizens of Iran, and the children of such persons, are considered Iranian nationals by Iranian authorities. Therefore, despite the fact that these individuals possess US citizenship, they must enter and exit Iran bearing an Iranian passport. Yet some former Iranian nationals have been issued visas in their US passports. Exit visas are required for dual nationals to depart Iran. US passports are valid for travel to Iran. However, the authorities have often confiscated the US passports of US-Iranian dual nationals upon arrival. US-Iranian dual nationals have been denied permission to depart Iran documented as US citizens. To prevent the confiscation of US passports it is suggested that dual nationals leave their US passports at the nearest US Embassy or Consulate overseas for safekeeping before entering Iran, and use their Iranian passports to enter the country.
If you are an American traveling to Iran, of course you want to visit the former United States Embassy. You must see it. Consider it. It was the place overrun by young Islamic revolutionaries in 1979. The place where 52 blindfolded, manacled embassy personnel were paraded in front of the international community for 444 days by student militants. It's the place that saw the end to all diplomatic relations between the two countries, ruining President Jimmy Carter's chances for reelection and ushering in the Reagan Era. It's here where, as an American in Iran, you realize how special you are—that you're a member of that oddly intriguing fraternity known as the Great Satan.
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Iran Photo Gallery
"My European clients don't ask to see this place," my guide says to me unhappily.
He doesn't understand the reason for my coming here. To him it's merely an inconvenient, unpleasant place to visit, crowded with secret police who don't appreciate tourist calls—especially not by Americans. Should I get out of the van to take a photo, there's a chance my camera would be confiscated and I might even get arrested. In which case he'd be obligated, as my official keeper, to try to extricate me from the mess. I'm aware of my vulnerability in coming to Iran, a police state where hating America is the official policy. Have problems here as an American, and you're on your own.
We slip past the embassy grounds, the driver not wanting to stop. We pass a government slogan painted on a wall that calls the U.S. "the most hated state before our nation." And farther down, in bold letters: "We will make America face a severe defeat." And now the embassy itself, which is an unattractive place. A nondescript brick building, surrounded by an unkempt yard. An iron fence. An old eagle seal chipped away over the years but still visible on the front gate. It's home to a Revolutionary Guard headquarters now and is known as "The U.S. Den of Espionage"—ludicrous and surreal-sounding, like something out of a Thomas Pynchon novel. It's here where a reported 52,000 Iranians have voluntarily signed up for "martyrdom missions" against U.S. and British interests around the world, merely awaiting orders to mobilize.
Seeing the embassy and thinking of its history, I wonder what really lies in Iranians' hearts. And in my own. I've come to travel Iran as a foreigner and a woman, much like my inspiration, the 1930s-era writer and explorer Freya Stark, and as I move from Tehran into the remotest corners of the country, my goal is to keep an open mind. Still, it takes a small feat of equanimity for me to see this place, to read these slogans, without shuddering in disappointment.
The photographer with me, Bobby Model, cracks the car window and sticks his telephoto lens outside. The driver, nervous about this transgression, picks up speed. We pass the famous murals painted beside the embassy gates: the Statue of Liberty with a skull's face; the American flag in the shape of a gun. Bobby asks the driver to slow down, his camera on autofocus and shooting away while I stay on the lookout.
A uniformed policeman takes notice of our creeping van and starts to walk steadily toward us.
"Someone's coming!" I say to Bobby.
He snaps back from the window and hides his camera. Our van speeds away around the block. After a few moments, we look over our shoulders: no one.
Our guide is shaking his head. "Why do Americans always want to see the embassy?" he laments.
Here is where the Iranians go: Tehran's Martyrs' Museum. It's just around the corner and commemorates the estimated 750,000 Iranians who died
during the ten-year Iran-Iraq war, as well as the reported 60,000 killed during the Islamic revolution in 1978-79.
On the walls of the museum, I see many of the dead pictured. In Iran they're always called "martyrs," to remind people of their unique sacrifice in the name of Islam—and of the rewards their spirits are supposedly enjoying in Paradise.
Among the exhibits: A black-and-white photo of an Iranian boy, perhaps nine years old, a member of a unit called the basijis (composed mostly of young children and elderly who were used, among other things, as human minesweepers), "martyred" by blowing himself up with a grenade beneath an Iraqi tank. Saddam Hussein started the Iran-Iraq war in 1980, and with Iran's Islamic fundamentalist regime being fervently anti-American, the U.S. government made the unsavory decision to assist him. As a result, Iranian mullahs—those religious leaders largely responsible for spreading anti-American sentiment—blame both Hussein and the U.S. for the deaths of three-quarters of a million Iranians.
A lone man looks at a pile of bloody uniforms and incriminating papers on display, clutching himself and sobbing. The bloodshed still traumatizes the country. Painted on the sides of buildings, flashed and reflashed across television screens endlessly, are the faces of the dead—so that no one will forget.
I just got back from my trip to Iran on April 26, 2007. As an American, I was not able to travel by myself, so I took a tour with Adventure-Abroad, a Canadian tour company. You can see alll the tour highlights by going to the web site of Adventures-abroad.com and downloading the details. What I woul like to do with this trip report is to give some of my impressions.
Visas: The tour company took care of this detail for me. I am a female and I did not have to cover my hair in my visa picture. I was told that it was not necessary because muy passport picture did not have my head covered , so it was OK. The passport took what seemed like forever to be approved. and I was told that the Iranian officials take their time with these things. This is true. ...My visa came just two weeks before my departure date. I had sent it in three months prior.
Food: I was told before hand that the best Iranian food is not in restaurants but at home. Even so, most of the food I had was very good. Shrimp, lamb and Chicken are on most menues. If you go, try and have something called "Fesanjan" ( sp?). It is a chicken ( or meatball ) based stew that has a sauce of walnuts and pomegranates. Yummy!!! Also try a local icecream call starch noodles and a local candy called "Sohan". The candy is like a brittle but it has pistachios nuts in it instead.
Safety: I found that Iran was extremely safe and at no time did I feel at risk. In fact, I have travelled to many different countries and the Iranian people are without a doubt, the friendliest people I have ever met. As westerners, my group ,who by the way consisted of two female friends, 87 and 86 respectively, a Jewish Doctor and his wife who were on their seconfd trip to Iran, two guys, and three lone females, were treated like celebrities. Everywhere you went you heard echo's of " we love America and Americans, can I have my picture with you? " This was what I had not expected to hear or see. The people of Iran are warm and friendly and if you know who to ask or where to go you will find that there is a subculture that exists very efficiently. With all the western trappings.
Carpets and shopping; Every city has carpet shops and the ever present bazars. If you do your homework you can get some very beautiful carpets at reasonable prices ( bargin hard to achieve this) I bought mine in Esfahjan. I paid partly with cash and the rest I charged ( there are some dealers that will put your purchase through Dubai ) In the northern part of Tehran, many carpet stores deal with western ( read ...American and well as European ) rug shops.
Problems: Traffic and crossing the street are the only major problems I encountered. You can walk just about anywhere but when you come to the corner and must cross the street.....look out. When I was tthere I witnessed two fatalities.Its scary to take a cab and watch them drive. The drivers do not always use their headlights at night no do they always stop for a red light. When crossing the street, try and wait for a group and cross in a pack. Safey in numbers.
Clothein: Men can wear just about anything. Women on the other hand MUST wear a head covering., as well as some sort of clothing that covers the hips. Iranian women are tiny and very beautiful. They push the envelope when it comes to both of these items.As a non-Iranian you are given a lot of leeway in your dress BUT you must wear something on you head if you are female. This can be a scarf, hijab or I have even seen hats worn by other tour groups. The doctors wife wore a oversize mans shirt and no one said a word to her. Make no mistake it is hot in April with your head covered so I chose to wear the hijab ( you can buy them most everywhere ) as it allows the air to circulate under the cloth and around your neck.
Well those are some of my inpressions of this amazing country I chose to visit. If you too plan a trip there in the future, may you have as wonderful a trip as I did.
All women must wear hijab in Iran. It starts with your visa photo - your hair must be covered for that. Don't get hung up about it. A scarf and a fairly loose coat (at least knee length) is all you need over trousers or full-length skirts. If you're not used to wearing a scarf, you might find it easier to wear a cotton one than a silky fabric -cotton clings to the hair better. Resign yourself to every day being a bad hair day, pack some hairclips to hold it in place and just forget about it. You don't have to hide all your hair. An unlined coat will serve you best - you can always add something underneath if it's cold, but you'll be so uncomfortable if it's hot, paricularly if your coat is lined with the awful man-made fibres that is usual these days. Fairly loose sleeves that you can roll back a bit when it's very hot are a good idea too. Ankle length trousers - no cutoffs or capris here. Shoes, not sandals, and socks - and you'll be fine. Leyle
Iran is inexpensive by international standards and also is a treasure house of exquisite handicrafts.Persian artworks and handicrafts are historic and famous. So take an empty suitcase with you to fill it with all your wonderful shopping and a backpack to take on trips.
Because of its size, variety of topography and altitude, Iran experiences great extremes of climate. so depend on the season and the places you plan to visit you should have proper clothes with you.remember Islamic codes of dress. Women should not forget to have a scarf to cover their hair and neck (take a cotton one, it's lighter) and the Islamic clothes (large cotton or linen pants and a long sleeves cotton shirt to the knees) with them.
Always take your medication with you. But you can buy most common things in Iran.
While you are in Iran, there are many wonderful places worth to take a photo of.Don't forget to have your camera or camcorder with you specially when you are in Isfahan, Shiraz, Yazd or kermanshah. also Caspian sea region boasts of its wonderful natural sights, attracting thousands of tourists both at home and abroad every year. Don't worry for 35mm camera films, There is lots of photo-shops in Iran and the film is even cheaper than, for example, in the United States.But if you are using digital camera, take enough RAM and batteries. equipments( batteries, chargers , films, RAM,... ) for some branded digital cameras and camcorders can be found in Tehran but you would have trouble to find them when you are in other cities.
There are restrictions on both the import and the export of goods to/from Iran Tourists can bring in and take out the following non-commercial goods, if they are recorded on the tourist's goods slip upon arrival at customs: personal jewelry, one camera, an amateur video camera, one pair of binoculars, a portable tape recorder, a personal portable computer, first aid box, and a camping tent with its equipment. Iranian authorities allow the departing passenger to take an unlimited amount of Iranian goods and foreign goods up to $160 (US), and their personal non-commercial equipment. Air passengers may also take one carpet up to 6 square meters from Iran.Iranian authorities prohibit the export of antique carpets , antiques, original works of art, calligraphic pieces, different kinds of coins, and precious stones. They likewise prohibit the export and import of alcoholic beverages, weapons, ammunitions, swords and sheaths, military devices, drugs and illegal goods
Iran is a vast country with a very diverse climate. In summer take enough light clothes with you. Walking shoes, and sandals. What you wear should be in harmony with the Islamic nature of the country. long sleeves and scarf for women, and not so tight shirts for men.
If you are under a special medication make sure to suply yourself with enough medicine. It is also good to have some sprays and ointments to keep yourself from insects. A good sunblock cream or lotion is also nessessary. It is easy to get sunburnt.
It is absolutely essential to cover your head and hair at all times. I found pashminas to be a comfortable, sttylish and effective way of achieving this. I would also recommend bonnet caps and pins to help keep the pashmina on your head. The Hijab Shop online has a wide range of products, tips on how to tie the thing, and generally makes fun browsing. You may want to check it out for advice, even if you can get pashminas more cheaply (which you probably can). thanks for ur report it was very interesting!
we (my iranian husband and twin boys) are due to goto iran for mine and my boys first time in july this year.
i have been worried about the dress since i have read all these recent 'bad hejab' crackdowns and fashion police!i was scared i would be arrested!
did u get lots of stares then? my hubby is worried cos im 5ft 9, slim, blonde with green eyes and he said we will get too much unwanted attention , from the women too!
i have to get an iranian passport tho cos they wont give me a visa cos im married to an iranian so im entitled to iranian passport as im a citezin too once i complete the islamic marriage ceremony i have to go and do in london next month.
its a lot of hard work and money to get the iranian i.d card and passport, i just hope the trip is worth it.
im worried about the traffic and the crime, ive read about muggings and westerners being targeted for crime cos theyre passports are worth a fortune on the black market (not that we'd carry them round with us!)
im such a worrier!
so, how did everyone know u are american?
did u see any other tourists?
how was the shopping?
my husbands fave meal is fesenjan! yeh it is chicken breast (or should be!)
thanks again
if u could reply to this , id appreciate it
thanks luv jude
